Pendraig Cat/Kitten Diet & Care Requirements
Page 5 (continued from Page 4 Pendraig's Feline Diet )
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Pendraig’s Feline Care Instructions
Your cat or kitten comes from a home where only all natural, environmentally friendly and non-toxic cleaners, detergents and soaps are used. These are easy to obtain and your local health food store or online (see resources). They are also treated for fleas and parasites using herbal and homeopathic remedies as well as diet. An animal on their optimal diet will have a superior immune system and the tools it needs to fight off fleas, ticks and intestinal worms. Your kitten or cat is also raised by a natural rearing model which means that they are never subjected to unnecessary chemicals, drugs, or vaccines. We prefer that any kitten or cat from our cattery never be vaccinated at all, however we do understand that rabies vaccination is required by law in most states. Your cat or kitten should never be given chemical de-wormers unless under extreme cases and only after you have contact us and a holistic veterinarian (preferably a homeopath or herbalist). What cannot be addressed naturally will of course be addressed using allopathic medicine if needed but that is only as a last resort.
Your feline’s health is a careful balance of proper nutrition and support of the body while not putting it under undue stress with vaccines, chemicals, and drugs. With this balance in place your cat can combat most diseases and parasites naturally without intervention. The more serious diseases can be helped with the aid of a trained homeopath. Below are listed our requirements to avoid voiding the health guarantee in your contract. After that they are optional, but highly recommended care tips. If you are ever in doubt call us before you make a decision.
Principles of Natural Rearing
- No Vaccinations –Except those required by law. If you are really worried about exposure to diseases then you can ask your homeopath, we are ready and willing to discuss this with you. Homeopathic treatments, especially in raw fed and naturally reared animals, are highly effective even against deadly diseases. The animal’s body is at its best when naturally reared and able to do much of the battle on its own. For those that need a little extra help homeopathy can provide a supportive booster to the body while not suppressing the natural reactions and symptoms. Homeopathy is also tailored to the individual animal and is not a one-size-fits-all solution. There are various homeopathic treatments including nosodes which are derived from the disease itself, much like vaccines, but at such a diluted level that it poses no real threat to a healthy animal. Nosodes ideally should only be used after confirmed exposure to a disease but may be used for those of you who are uncomfortable forgoing vaccination. We can discuss this one on one and if you are extremely uncomfortable I will consider giving them a round of nosodes for the most rampant and dangerous diseases before they leave the cattery. We can also discuss a single vaccination of either the three-in-one vaccination for panleukopenia, rhinotracheitis and calicivirus or just the panleukopenia given after six months of age. It must only be given when the cat is not under stress, ill in any way (no matter how minor), or in conjunction with (or within 30 days of) another procedure or the rabies vaccine. This is only in extreme cases and when putting owners on our waiting list preference will be given to those willing to follow our no vaccinations policy. Any vaccination besides those listed above will void the health guarantee.
- Minimal Rabies Vaccination – If it isn’t illegal in your area to avoid the rabies vaccination then we highly recommend doing so. If it is required by law we request that NO kitten younger than 6 months of age will receive this vaccination. It is extremely dangerous and difficult for their bodies to handle. The law requires vaccination at 4 months in most areas so we understand if you cannot avoid this. However, you have indoor only cats (as none of our cats are allowed outside per the contract with only a few exceptions) it is unlikely that they will come in contact with rabies. Waiting until they are 10 months old should not pose a problem. If you choose to vaccinate with rabies please consult a homeopath or holistic vet before so that they can help your kitty prepare for the ordeal and any vaccinosis that may result. After initial vaccination always ask for titer levels to be checked. Many holistic vets will check titer levels and give you a waiver stating your cat has sufficient immunity to rabies and this may work using just nosodes alone. So talk to your vet. If you do vaccinate do titers before the required boosters (which should be at LEAST 3 years apart). If the levels are adequate a good holistic vet will write you a waiver. Do NOT revaccinate any cat over 7 years old. It is unnecessary and can severely damage their body. If rabies vaccination is done more than the absolute minimum required by law the health guarantee will be void.
- Mostly Raw and Natural Diet – We do prefer 100% raw diets for all of our cats and will choose owners who will follow that preference over those who will not. However, if we feel you are otherwise willing to adapt the diet to your lifestyle, offer supplements and feed only quality foods we will be happy to work with you. Feeding raw and canned food however is actually more hassle than just going completely raw and we are here to help you get ready and if you want to visit and help us do a few feedings to get the hang of it we can work that out as well. We ask that you try feeding 100% raw for at least 3 months before feeding 50% raw.
- Avoid dry foods –Dry grain based kibble has the highest level of carbohydrates and the lowest level of protein. What protein is there is highly denatured by the rendering and drying process. This type of food also causes a chronic state of dehydration which can lead to Renal Failure (kidney disease), Liver problems, urinary tract disorders, and diabetes (including pancreas issues). The toxins and high carbohydrate levels can cause irritable bowel disease and other inflammatory responses. We do offer a health guarantee for those cats fed dry food but it does not cover any of the above disorders and is subject to our final decision as to whether or not dry kibble is directly to blame for the health problems or death of the animal. IF you must feed dry, please use a quality grain free brand.
- High Quality Canned Foods – if you choose to feed canned foods they must be high quality brands, with meat sources as their first and preferably second ingredients. The best canned products are the 95% meat versions that are grain free. They should not contain any type of soy. Poultry is not as nutritionally dense so it should only comprise a small part of the diet. A list of acceptable canned foods is in the resources section and subject to change as the ingredients do, often without notice. Contact us if you have questions or want to know what foods are acceptable. We are always available to our kitten and cat owners.
- Less than 100% raw required supplements – Any of our cats on a less than 100% raw diet MUST be supplemented with cod liver oil (High quality oil, Blue Ice Therapeutics Liquid – non flavored by Green Pastures is to be recommended), Primal Defense Probiotics, Call of the Wild (See resources for alternative brands), Prozyme, and Vitamin C daily. The day before fasting should consist of ONLY raw foods with the exception of the fermented fish which is an excellent pre-fasting meal.
- No Free Choice Eating – Cats are not naturally grazers but predators and thus will eat at any opportunity whether or not they are hungry. Their bodies need the time between meals (minimum 5 hours for healthy adults) to clear out toxins for their high protein diet or if partially raw fed the toxins from the canned food. Cats that are permitted to eat free choice disrupt their digestive tracts and can become obese or dangerously thin.
- Never use clumping clay litters – these can be highly toxic, cause blockages especially in kittens and the dust is dangerous to your pets. We will void the health guarantee if we discover you have been using these types of litters and we may request the cat be returned to us if you continue to use them. We recommend and use Feline Pine Scoopable, World’s Best Cat Litter or other natural brands. These are all natural, pine and cedar oil free, and safe for the environment. They do an excellent job with litter box odor (as does the raw diet) and when you clean out the box it can be mulched and put in your non-edible garden. Because of the nature of this litter very little waste accumulates or sticks to the bottom and sides making clean up a breeze. We have tried out many brands of all natural clumping litters in our self-cleaning litter boxes and we recommend a few brands and have signed up for Breeder Programs that will send you samples of various litters and/or coupon and rebate offers.
- Holistic, herbal and homeopathic treatments – these treatments should always be the first type of treatment you seek. We recommend finding a holistic vet in your area and interviewing them before you bring your kitten home. If you cannot find a veterinary homeopath in your area we recommend Marina Zacharias of NaturalRearing.com. She does phone consultations and has helped us out before. She is a wonderful person who has great products.
- No antibiotics, steroids, cortisone or sulfa – except in extreme emergency situations. Always consult your holistic vet and if time allows, us as well. These are medicines of last resort and can cause a great deal of harm to the body. If they must be used then follow a regimen to eliminate the toxins and deal with any side effects. For example if antibiotics must be used the cat should be supplemented with additional probiotics to repopulate his/her body with good bacteria.
- Do not declaw – unless the cat’s life is at stake, and you have already consulted us because of this, do not ever declaw your Pendraig cat. Declawing removes the last joint on each “finger” along with the claw. You can equate that to losing the last joint on your own finger. This can lead to behavior issues including aggression, biting, scratching with rear claws, and refusal of the litter box because it is painful to their paws. You must receive our permission to declaw the cat or the health guarantee will be void and we will not allow you to adopt another cat. We’ve seen firsthand how this affects their lives and we will never allow it to happen again. There are alternatives for cats that have a behavior that is threatening their lives with their family. Soft Paws for example is a great product that is glued onto each nail and makes it so that they cannot scratch anything. They still have full function of their paws and the claw covers come off naturally in about two weeks. If your cat is accustomed to claw clipping it shouldn’t be difficult to put them on. We have used them in cases where one of our mixed breed cats was tearing his face up due to allergies. It allowed his body time to heal (with homeopathy) because he couldn’t re-injure himself and was more humane than an Elizabethan collar.
- Do not allow your kitty outside – unless you have an enclosure that is safe and escape proof do not let your kitty outside unsupervised. Cats can get into a lot of trouble and use up their 9 lives quickly. We know the heartbreak of losing a cat to getting hit in the road, or killed by the neighbor’s dog. Don’t put yourself, or your cats, through this. Building them an outside run is inexpensive, easy, and can be made to look very nice. We have a few affordable ideas, so contact us if you’d like more information. You can also train them to accept a harness and leash (never use a collar as they can wiggle out). We’ve also seen a product that is a fabric like cage that allows them fresh air but you must supervise them as they would be unable to escape if something threatened them. Fresh air is great for your cat, but our dangerous world isn’t.
- Do not use Advantage, Frontline, Bio-Spot or other flea products – these products are highly toxic despite what their manufacturers and veterinarians claim. They can cause dangerous reactions, especially in cats, and even cancer if used long term. Use of these products will void both the Ideal and Advanced Health Guarantees. There are plenty of natural alternatives that work just as well and are non-toxic to the animals and your family.
Preferred Care
- Avoid feeding table scraps – we feed our cats some table scraps (meat based only, some dairy) on occasion. However, only when we eat whole foods that we make ourselves that contain no soy, no MSG, no artificial sweeteners, colorings, preservatives or other additives. Our meat and poultry comes from grass-fed or pastured animals that are raised by our local farmers. We do not eat fast food, processed foods (with the exception of a few from the health food store), or “health foods” containing soy or canola oil. If your family eats like ours then a few table scraps will not hurt anything. Otherwise, let them eat their own food. And never feed them while you are eating as they will beg like dogs and can be a lot more obnoxious.
- Use only All Natural Cleansers – we strongly prefer that you throw out any cleaners, detergents or soaps that contain chlorine. We do keep some bleach on hand for emergencies but we prefer not to use it. We use all natural laundry detergent, dishwasher soap, dishwashing soap, floor soap, and citrus counter cleanser as well as various bathroom products. We use only natural and if possible organic soaps and shampoos on ourselves and the pets. If you choose to only make a few changes than we would prefer you start with the dishwasher detergent and floor soap as this is what your kitties will be in contact most. We have different brands that we like and use listed in the resource section.
- Only use holistic veterinarians – preferably ones who understand and practice herbal and homeopathic remedies. Emergency clinics may of course be used in emergency situations.
- Use only all natural flea repellents – there are many herbs that help repel fleas. If you develop an infestation dusting your home with food grade diatomaceous earth will kill the fleas and larvae in your carpets as will vacuuming. You can make a flea powder following our recipe. Vacuum regularly, use citrus cleaners in your home, and natural rearing of your pets should keep fleas to a minimum. Usually we do not have flea problems at all but on occasion a new kitten brings one home. Call us if you have any problems or concerns.
Additional Care Tips
- Do not bathe too often – if you plan to show your kitty then giving a weekly bath for a few months can get him/her used to the procedure but please only use all natural shampoos and soaps. Those of you who do not plan to show, the kitties don’t really need to be bathed all that often though we do try to do it twice per month when they are young so that they will not fight being bathed later. Bathing them to often can dry out their fur and skin.
- Clipping nails – we recommend keeping their nails clipped. This helps to reduce the severity of the accidental scratching as well as gets your cat accustomed to having the procedures done and having his/her feet handled. Be careful however not to clip them too short. We find human nail clippers to be the easiest to use and we line up the clippers so that the nail lays flat against the blade. We clip nails about once a week while they are young, again to make them used to being handled, and then as needed later on.
- Do not feed on counters – this encourages your cats to climb on the counters and table top even while you are preparing dinner or eating with your family. They may do this on their own anyway, but encouraging the behavior by feeding them up there is just asking for trouble. The place where you prepare the food for your family and your cats should be a clean surface and if your cat is climbing all over the place it won’t be very clean. Those with disabilities of course may find that the best place to feed is on the table and that is their choice to make. There are various tricks you can use to deter climbing, sleeping and walking on the cabinets including upside down masking tape. You can also use those plastic floor covers with spikes that go into the carpet cut to the size of your counter, or easy to use squares, and inverted so the spikes are up. This won’t hurt the kitty but it’s not fun to walk or lay on. Some stores sell products like this as well. In extreme cases you can use a Scat Mat which has a tiny electric pulse. The counter is a dangerous place for your kitty with the cooking implements, stove and knives so we feel even the use of a Scat Mat to be preferable than allowing them free access to the counter tops.
- Brush once or twice a week – brushing, gently, helps keep their coat in top shape. It redistributes their oils all over their fur, removes excess hair and debris and is a bonding time with your cat. We use several different types of brushes and we really enjoy the time we spend brushing our cats. We often do it while watching TV. The cats love it.
Conclusion
We hope this document has helped you to understand how we care for our animals, what we expect of kitten and cat buyers and the types of choices you have available to you as prospective owners of Pendraig Siberian Cats. Some of these rules may seem strange or strict but you can pick which plan is easiest for you to follow. Those who choose to go the extra mile and raise their Siberians as we do will reap the benefits of a healthier, longer lived, and happier cat. They get extra insurance with a more comprehensive health guarantee that isn’t like any other we’ve ever seen. We know that natural rearing works and we’re willing to put our reputation and our money on the line. We don’t want to exclude other good homes though who cannot or do not want to raise their cats in this manner so we offer them an alternative that is comparable with most other catteries. If you have any questions or concerns please contact us. Thank you for adopting a Pendraig Siberian Cat.
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We are located near Austin, Texas USA



